Jedidiah Thursday, June 19, 2008

Restaurants

Peace China : You Call that Gourmet?

The shops at Seaboard Station have slowly added new restaurants, a grocery store and soon condos (Tyler’s Taproom is also rumored). The latest addition to this pseudo-urban development is Peace China which touts itself as “Gourmet Chinese”. Raleigh has a couple of “gourmet” Chinese restaurants, this not being one of them.

I had not peered into Peace China’s window before today but saw the restaurant sign from a distance a couple of weeks ago while eating lunch at Logan’s. I had zero pre-visit expectations. The first piece of information directing you towards the restaurant is a large sign upon entering Seaboard Station stating “Peace China - Gourmet Chinese.” The sign points towards the back of the shops.  On an island in the back of the parking lot swamped complex is Peace China, just past Ace Hardware.

Upon walking in the front door, my first thought was “Hey, this was a Kentucky Fried Chicken that someone turned into a Chinese restaurant.” Of course, this is not the case because the interior was finished recently and specifically for Peace China.  Nevertheless, all signs pointed away from gourmet Chinese and pointed more towards fast food. The menu includes your standard Chinese meals from Kung Pao Chicken to Chow Mein.  There are also some Chef’s Suggestions on the menu, about 10 Thai recipes and 27 lunch specials for $5.25. As with most (non-gourmet) Chinese restaurants, the menu is quite large and overwhelming.

After tasting the Chicken Lo Mein and asking around the table about everyone’s meal, the consensus was that Peace China is an average Chinese restaurant.  It will survive since China Market left downtown a year ago and was replaced by Champa Thai Cafe (a sub-par Thai equivalent of Peace China).  The competition for Chinese is nada in the walkable downtown area. Then again walking to to Peace China isn’t really an option for the downtown crowd. Remember that parking lot swamp I mentioned. 

The market for fast food Chinese isn’t as saturated as the Thai market in downtown Raleigh, although Asian themed restaurants are on the rise. Peace China is also very environmentally unfriendly, using plastic utensils, styrofoam plates and paper cups. Similar to Champa, this creates a less than desirable atmosphere for dining and feels very irresponsible and wasteful. I’ll pay the extra dollar or two for something more responsible elsewhere. There are other better options in town.  If you wan fast Chinese, stick to either Red Dragon or Jade Garden on the west side.  And if you want “Gourmet Chinese”, pay the extra at Duck n Dumpling or Five Star, both within the downtown grid. The food and atmosphere are much better at these locations and although Five Star has General’s Chicken, it tastes and looks nothing like Kentucky Fried Chicken…

Come on Peace China, you call that gourmet?

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  • John06/19 06:12 PM

    Because of the location and price it will probably be dismissed out of hand, but Golden Dragon on Hillsborough Street is by and large my favorite Chinese restaurant in all of Raleigh.
    The staff is friendly, the food fresh and hot at an unbeatable price, and best of all--they actually know how to cook tofu. Most Chinese restaurants have no idea how to cook it, so you are left with a deep friend crunchy shell with oozing white liquid on top of your rice/vegetables/etc.
    If you crave Chinese, check out Golden Dragon! Especially if you don’t eat meat.

  • Satisfied customer06/19 06:38 PM

    I ate Peace China for lunch today and I must say I thought it was better than many of the other Chinese places near downtown…

    I have to highly disagree with this article other than the fact that it may not be gourmet exactly, but it is damn good.

  • oak city chirper06/19 07:10 PM

    Pretty brutal review. We had dinner there tonight and it was very good. Were there white tablecloths? No. Was it 5 star chef or whatever the definition of gourmet is? Probably not. Was it tasty, real ingredients w/ no MSG, and prepared fresh? Yep. And reasonably priced to boot. They can call themselves whatever they want as far as I’m concerned. I’ll go back for sure.  And if less folks are in line b/c it’s not “gourmet” according to them, less time to wait for me.

    This ain’t NYC, Jedidiah.  Maybe you need to adjust your expectations accordingly.  Cutting people a little slack wouldn’t hurt, either.

  • Not "the" Mordecai Guy but a guy in Mordecai nonet06/19 08:33 PM

    I’d like to thank the three reviewers that critiqued this article. Based on the critiques I just tried Peace China and I was pleasantly surprised. For the price, location and type of fare it was very good. I even walked across the “parking lot swamp” and bought a six pack of beer from Capital City Grocery while I waited for my food to be cooked.

    For those of you that don’t know the Seaboard area it is walkable from downtown, Mordecai and Oakwood. If you prefer to take the subway I suggest you move to a larger city and please take Jedediah with you.

  • hungry for more06/20 08:30 AM

    I for one am excited about Peace China, it fills a niche for the downtown area that one would otherwise have to go to Hillsborough or Western to get before. Other than the gourmet part being missleading, as soon as you walk, or drive (yes people still do drive downtown) up to this resturaunt, you know exactly what to expect, good cheap chinese food. Not everything opening downtown needs to be a superb dining experience, everyone needs a break from the mints, the pitts and the duck and dumplings every once in a while, and so do their wallets. I for one am looking forward to more reasonably priced dining opening up downtown, and can’t wait to try Peace China.

  • JZ06/20 08:35 AM

    I think the food was average.  Neither here, nor there.  My Kung Pao Chicken was heavy on very fresh, lightly sauteed vegetables (a plus) but light on chicken (a minus).  I did not ask for it to be made spicy, but I did not expect the flavorings to be downright bland.  I guess you don’t know what you got (MSG) until its gone.

    I agree with Jed that this is not Gourmet because the entire menu is built upon common Americanized Chinese dishes.  There was little care demonstrated to make them different than the next Chinese restaurant.  But maybe that what will make is successful, just a good ol’ chip-of-the-old-block Chinese Restaurant.

    I welcome Peace China to the neighborhood.  I will come back and look forward to when the kitchen loses a bit of its luster and begins to -ahem- IMPART a richer, more complex flavor to the food.

  • JZ06/20 08:49 AM

    Ummmm....BTW....just a question:  Why are folks attacking the restaurant reviewer for having an opinion?  Isn’t that kind of the point of a restaurant review?

    Thank you John for recommending Golden Dragon...never considered checking the place out...and tofu is VERY important in our household.

  • hungry for more06/20 09:12 AM

    I was not trying to attack the reviewer at all in my post. I just felt that he was reviewing it not based on what it was, but on what he wished it would have been. I was just trying to point out in my post that I think there is a need for this type of resaurant in closer to downtown and that office workers will go there, they might drive, but thats ok. No ill will towards the reviewers opinion.

  • JZ06/20 09:23 AM

    I think what got everything off on a bad foot is that the restaurant chose to use the work “Gourmet” to draw a clientele.  To some extent, I feel a bit cheated by this improprietous use of the term.  A bit like Champa having the tag line “Let Champa bring spice to your life” when the food is anything but extremely flavorful.

    Sure, sure, its a free country and that’s what businesses do, exaggerate their qualifications.  I wish we’d work harder to keep the bar high in terms of quality while balancing value so that those superlatives are not squandered.  I think we continue to suffer without a Chinese Restaurant that really offers that.

  • Diane06/20 09:53 AM

    “Then again walking to to Peace China isn’t really an option for the downtown crowd.”
    ...Really? Yikes! Who are these lazy folks who can’t walk from downtown to Seaboard Station? Man, that’s sad. I mean, come on, people.

  • oak city chirper06/20 10:28 AM

    JZ I have no issue with someone reviewing a restaurant.  What I take issue with is the string of unrelated barbs thrown in that have nothing to do with the restaurant:

    - What does “pseudo-urban” mean, exactly?  That reusing existing buildings for new purposes isn’t “real” urban? that it is somehow less authentic or what?
    - parking lot swamp: I’d much rather walk across the [in reality] relatively small parking lots at Seaboard than face the headache of places like Crossroads or Brier Creek.
    - for someone who had zero pre-visit expectations, that word “gourmet” sure seemed to have an affect.

    FWIW, I do agree with hungryformore that it was reviewed based on what Jedidiah wanted it to be (whatever that is). Is “gourmet” misleading? Probably. But it is what you see is what you get.

    As for Jedidiah’s responsible comments toward the environment, restaurants have a tough choice: we’re in a drought situation, in case folks need to be reminded, and disposable utensils may be the best choice at the moment to save water.

    And since when do the looks of a place reflect the quality of the food? Some of the best places I’ve ever eaten look like they should be condemned.  But I suppose if pretense & image are that important, I wonder: why live in Raleigh to begin with?

  • Michael06/20 10:51 AM

    I’ve found that restaurants that are gourmet rarely need to insist that they are gourmet.

    I wish Asian restaurants would stop wasting their money on illuminated photo menus and tacky marble and gold decor. A gallon of dark paint and pared-down, printed menus (without numbered dishes) would go a long way to create simple, sophisticated (and restrained) atmosphere.

    It doesn’t matter how good the food is if no one wants to enter the restaurant.

  • Emily06/20 12:14 PM

    Maybe sophisticated is not what they are going for.  Maybe they want you to eat and leave as soon as you are done.  Maybe this is a fast food restaurant that sells lunch for 5.25 and you get what you pay for.

  • EH06/20 12:45 PM

    I agree with Emily.  She must be some sort of magical logic princess.  Also, Golden Dragon is fantastic.  The lo mein will turn your styrofoam plate invisible.

  • satisfied customer again06/20 02:36 PM

    Ok, so I decided to try it again since I only have had one dish.  the 2nd one was just as good..

    this place is a go!

  • East Street or Bust06/20 02:46 PM

    As a Oakwood resident, I was expecting Peace China to conform to the standards set forth by Capital City Grocery, Logan’s, Seaboard 18 and even, Ace Hardware...A local feel, a little overpriced, and downtown friendly.  While I am disappointed PC might not meet all of these particular expectations, I am pretty excited to have a place to pick up a quick meal (especially, after a night of one too many beers).  Jed, this might be what you have for dinner on Sunday!  Welcome to the neighborhood Peace China!

  • " The Mordecai Guy"06/20 03:13 PM

    Jed, lets review again in a month I’m Buying.
    OK, I ate there yesterday, I thought “par” was the right word. Not below average not above but, what I expected was a Red Dragon (5 points) style. But is only been open like 3 days.
    “ I too thought HMMM.. Gourmet....paper plates?
    real plates could make it gourmetish-esque.

    Price was very good!!!
    I’ll definitly go again and recommend it to everyone.
    I know it will grow in character as they get a little time under their belt.
    **** for price vs quality.
    ***** for location
    *** for vibe
    ***** for everyone who was there trying it out.
    ***** to Seaboard Station.
    W.A.I.
    TMG

  • Kermit06/20 04:52 PM

    If ordering from a gigantic backlit wall-mounted picture menu doesn’t say Gourmet, what does?

  • Booze06/20 09:40 PM

    I ate at PC today and I must say: I totally agree with the review.  What a waste of an opportunity.  I can get crap strip mall Chinese on Capital.  The price is right; maybe the next owner’s of the location will put a little effort into the place.

  • DPK06/21 12:19 AM

    I ate there for lunch Friday and enjoyed it.  For the price, it filled me up and I’ll definitely go back.  The place was packed and seems to be doing very well for itself.

  • B06/22 02:51 PM

    Yeah but downtown needs a cheap chinese place. I hope they deliver. And, I would rather not get food poisoning from Jade Garden(HI=90). Also, gourmet = a connoisseur of food and drink. It has nothing to do with presentation, price, atmosphere, or taste. Or how many dolphins, sea turtles, and Spotted Owls are saved daily.

  • Cydney06/22 07:19 PM

    Peace China is most definitely cheap/fast chinese takeout, not a fine dining establishment.  Peace China is also most definitely good value for the price and will go into both our lunch and quick dinner rotations.  The place is clean and the people are nice, so it rates above about every Chinese buffet place I’ve ever encountered.  The General Tso’s Chicken was not super spicy but we appreciated the actual, identifiable, pieces of pork and chicken in their respective fried rices.  The fried dumplings were really good.

    Considering that, until now, Five Star was our best option for takeout, Peace China is a welcome addition.  We love Five Star, but they don’t even open the kitchen until 5:30.  Takeout for two would cost closer to $50 than the $20 I spent tonight.  Lunch for two at Duck & Dumpling usually runs us close to $30.

    I’ll take walking through the parking lot at Seaboard over dodging drug dealers on H Street in DC any day.

  • kg06/23 07:57 AM

    The naming is unfortunate as gourmet, it is not but good Chinese food for cheap, yes it is.  Had the General Tso and dumplings yesterday and I’ll admit that I thoroughly enjoyed it.  If you’re looking for gourmet, go to Red Dragon, Five Star or Duck and Dumpling as others have mentioned.  If you’re getting home late or just looking for cheap but good Chinese, this is your place.

  • Christopher Triplett06/23 03:41 PM

    A fast food restaurant makes a statement when the kitchen is left visible to the patrons.  A good one.

    -CJT

  • Rafe06/24 10:12 PM

    What’s with the Red Dragon love? I enjoy eating there now and then but they cook as though vegetables are toxic.

    As far as Peace China goes. Cheap, decent Chinese downtown that’s available after dark and on weekends? Sold. Disposible utensils, illustrated menu, and tacky decor all say “legitimate ethnic restaurant” to me, and that’s another plus. Extra points for the seemingly ironic use of “gourmet.”

  • forgotaboutdre06/25 12:32 PM

    I was pleasantly surprised to read the original review which was as critical as a review should be.  However, I was very disappointed to see all of the comments defending the restaurant as if we need another cheap Chinese joint. 

    I have no qualms with people enjoying this plastic-filled cookie cutter restaurant for what it is.  But when you start comparing the merits of the No MSG(which is actually delicious), sickly sweet sauce, corn starched grease trap dives which shame the great history of Chinese cookery, it makes you look as if you have no idea of what good food is to begin with.

    If only Red Palace wasn’t closed.  And my nominees for American-Chinese are Dalat and Beansprout.

  • B06/26 09:32 AM

    And for the record. When I went in there I didn’t see any use of the word gourmet. Not on the sign, the menu, or anywhere in the restaurant. So I don’t know where the reviewer got his information.

  • Jedidiah06/26 09:49 AM

    read the text again, unless they have taken this sign down it was there a couple of weeks ago....

    “The first piece of information directing you towards the restaurant is a large sign upon entering Seaboard Station stating “Peace China - Gourmet Chinese.” The sign points towards the back of the shops.”

  • OCOG06/26 10:41 AM

    forgotaboutdre,
    Amen on what you typed above.

    Have you ever tried Fortune Palace on Capital? Now that Red Palace is closed (hopefully to reopen soon, unfortunately in Cary), I’m pretty sure they’re the only restaurant in Raleigh serving real Chinese food.

    MSG’s bad rep has been completely overblown when it comes to Chinese food by folks who likely have never looked at their Campbell’s soup or whatever-brandname Ranch dressing, among countless other common food products.

  • Anny06/28 04:35 PM

    I’ve been there many times since they opened.

    Pretty good food, good price!!!

  • Rafe06/29 03:51 PM

    OK, so after posting my comment I went to eat at Peace China.  It’s really not very good, which is kind of sad.

  • mmfood07/21 07:59 PM

    I loved it.  Living in Raleigh for the past 2+ years I have been constantly disapointed in the quality of take-away/dine-in restaurant options.  Every restaurant I ordered from served an extremly low quality of meat, to the point I would get the food and then decide just to eat the rice.  That was until this place opened and my desire for a good take-away Chinese restaurant was filled.  I love this place and am so glad it has arrived.  For more reviews visit learndowntownraleigh.com

  • AP08/12 04:57 PM

    Tried it. Lousy. C grade strip center Chinese. Too salty, over sauced, overcooked rice. What a shame given its nice location.

  • CM09/05 10:30 AM

    I think the food at Peace China is really good. Is it gourmet? No. Is it good? Yes. PC is quality take out food, that doesn’t make you feel gross after eating there. I’m sorry it doesn’t live up to Jeds’ expectations, but from what I can tell Jed sounds a little bitchey. Now if you’ll excuse me I’ve got to go litter the beach with the plastic rings from a few six-packs.

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